How to configure and run Multiple KrispyGauges on your vehicle.
You can run more than one KrispyGauge on the same CAN bus — a common setup is one showing engine vitals and another for boost and AFR. There are three things to get right: wiring, termination, and keypad identity.
The supplied JST XH cable is designed to daisy-chain. Run the bus from the ECU to the first gauge, then on to the next, and so on.
One gauge still needs Ignition-switched 12V, Ground, CAN-HIGH and CAN-LOW. You can feed them from the same source - just make sure the circuit and its fuse can carry all of them.
Recomendation is 4 or less gauges can run on a single JST-XH cable, additional sets should be split out onto a seperate power feed, however they can use the same CAN.
A CAN bus needs a terminating resistor at each end — no more. Your ECU normally provides one end, so only the final gauge in the chain should get the 120Ω resistor. Gauges in the middle don't.
If you're unsure, measure between CAN H and CAN L with everything powered off. See the termination resistor guide for the full explanation.
This is the one people miss. If you're using CAN Keypad emulation (For supported ECU's), each gauge must use a different keypad ID — one on A, one on B, set under Keypad in the Web UI.
Two gauges emulating the same keypad ID on one bus will fight each other and give unpredictable button behaviour. The same applies if you already have a physical CAN Keypad fitted — don't reuse its ID on a gauge.
Because there are only two identities, at most two gauges can emulate keypads at once. Any others should have keypad emulation turned off.
Every gauge runs its own separate WiFi hotspot with its own Krispy_XXXX name, derived from that unit's MAC address. Check the suffix on the gauge screen (Menu → Info) so you know which one you're connected to.
Set them up one at a time. With several hotspots live at once it's easy to configure the wrong unit without realising. Once you're done, turning off Auto-Enable WiFi on each gauge keeps things tidy — enable it on just the gauge you want to change.
Configure the first gauge exactly how you want it, then take a backup under Advanced → Backup and restore that file onto the second gauge. You get all your themes, thresholds and layout in one go.
Then change two things on the second gauge: its keypad identity (or turn keypad emulation off), and the pages themselves — otherwise you have two gauges showing identical information.
One gauge works, the other shows NO CAN SIGNAL — check the daisy-chain wiring to the second unit, and confirm CAN H and CAN L haven't been swapped at that joint.
Both gauges drop out intermittently — usually termination resistor issue.
Keypad buttons behave erratically — almost always a duplicate keypad ID.
Anything else, email [email protected].